Full width 2 mm edges

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2mm steel edges with a rockwell hardness of 48.  Durable and hard enough to stay sharp.

Exegi's Approach

2 mm steel edges are the industry standard (at least for snowboards – skis traditionally used narrower ones, but the trend has been towards 2 mm in all cases.  There isn’t much to say about them in particular.  Exegi uses Kevlar to tie them together and ensures that there is adequate side-edge reveal to sharpen the edges many times.  Care is taken in construction to keep edges and bases level and flat to avoid a thin base or edge situation.  This will allow multiple future base grinds without performance compromises.  Edges are positioned directly underneath/in line with the largest concentration of carbon fibers in the board/ski to help support it in cases of impact.

Special Cases: Splitboard inside edges

In splitboards, we install edges on the inside/straight edge that run from just outside the edge contact points.  This can be shortened for gram counting splitters.

Special Cases: Tip and Tail Full Wrap

Exegi will, when requested and at extra cost, install full wrap tip and tail edges.  This is, in our considered opinion, a bad idea.  Edges at the tip and tail constitute a hazard to the rider and others on the hill in the case of collision.  Edges from the edge contact points are generally detuned anyhow, with the extremities dulled right off.  They don’t do anything for performance out there….  The usual claim/reason for putting edges in the tip and tail is for damage resistance/durability.  It doesn’t really work out that way.

When considering light impacts the edge (wrap) sort of helps.  The edges can deflect small impacts and damage from lightweight hits (things like bushes and small trees less than 2 cm thick or so…) and provide a bit of protection from shaving due to edge scraping while skinning on splits or stomping on your tips and tails in the liftlines and stuff or while skiing.  On the other hand, the damage caused by the edges up there on the topsheets probably comes out at six of one, half dozen of the other…  The problems show up with bigger impacts.  Hitting rocks/stumps or banging into sharp hard objects at higher than running speeds, and damage from handling (coming off the car, helicopter baskets, gondola racks etc.) turns the “protective" edge into a 48 rockwell hardness chisel directed straight between the laminates and the base.  A split then occurs, as well as a bent edge shoved into the board, with the possible addition of twist/mangling. Usually, the result is a delaminated base/core/laminate and stretched and mangled displaced edge.  A non-edge-wrapped board will exhibit similar damage:  The board/ski will be mashed at the impact, but the delamination will be much smaller.  There will be no mangling of the edge – since it isn’t there.  Repair is much easier on the non-wrapped board or ski.  Under duress, one can simply slop everything in epoxy, use a couple of tongue-depressors or other sacrificial sticks and vice-grip them together in front of the fire.  Ride tomorrow.  It might not be pretty, but it’ll work.  Contrast this to the frustrating attempts to straighten bent and twisted pieces of hardened steel and reposition p-tex and laminate layers at the same time….  I’ve seem the results from both approaches and always recommend not using tip and tail edge wraps.  It’s lighter too…..